Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and travelers alike celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, Unesco designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a select group of world cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it enters a global network of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "is a testament to its centuries-old culinary traditions and lively culinary scene," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this venerable city is little surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has consistently characterized its heart: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a continued conversation from waking up until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, evolved, and elevated to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, blending Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on many street corners, there are little shops and stalls – lesser-known gems that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a no-frills joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and involved. The artisan beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however express concern that their younger generation do not want to master the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will encourage more people worldwide to discover these tales and experience the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
